Another hidden gem oasis in Baja, Mulege is our favorite town in all of Baja as it combines everything you would want or need (aside from a bank!) with a welcoming Mexican community. Unlike many places popular with campers in Baja, getting around Muelge still requires knowing how, or at least trying, to speak Spanish.
Nestled along the Muelge River, which passes through town on its last few miles toward its meeting with the Sea of Cortez, Mulege embodies the perfect fusion of rich history, natural beauty, and laid-back charm. The town lies 40 miles (65 km) south of Santa Rosalia and around 12 hours away from the US/Mexico border. It is the jumping-off point to the beaches along the Bay of Concepcion, just twenty minutes to the south.
With roots tracing back to the 18th century, this picturesque town boasts a fascinating history. Remains of Spanish missions and Indigenous settlements dot its landscape. Local Indians lived in Mulege for thousands of years because of the abundance of fresh water and the fertile Sea of Cortez.
As evidence, you can hire a guide to take you to explore the many cave paintings in the nearby Sierra de Guadalupe mountains.
Mulege was most recently discovered by the Jesuit father Juan Maria de Salvatierra, who founded Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulege in 1705. The town retains much of its historical charm, with colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. Father Francisco Escalante later built the mission in 1766.
Mulege’s official name is “Heroica Mulege,” awarded after the Mexican-American war of 1846-48. In 1847, Americans tried to invade the coastal town. However, the people of Mulege and nearby areas gathered and successfully defeated the Americans.
As a result, the town got the title of Heroica Mulege. To this day, quite a few locals will be quick to remind you of the time they beat the Americans in Mulege. You will also find a defunct prison that is now a museum and boasts some spectacular history. It was a one-of-a-kind prison that stayed operational until 1975.
More recent history attributes the town’s charm and the small airstrip that used to be on top of one of the nearby hills to bringing the likes of John Wayne and members of the Rat Pack well before the road was ever paved. An old hotel sits in ruins overlooking the river, where once the town was truly a hidden gem among those rich and famous stars who enjoyed the rustic beauty of Mulege and the waters that once teemed with sports fish.
The allure of Mulege lies in its historical significance, its proximity to the Bay of Concepcion, and the abundance of outdoor activities the region offers. Adventurers can embark on kayaking excursions through the serene waters of Bahía Concepción, explore the breathtaking landscapes of nearby Sierra de la Giganta on hiking trails, or relax on the pristine beaches that stretch seemingly endlessly along the coastline. Snorkeling, kayaking and paddleboarding enthusiasts will find themselves in paradise amidst the vibrant marine life thriving in the crystal-clear waters.
For those seeking cultural immersion, Mulege offers a glimpse into traditional Mexican life. Wander through the quaint streets lined with colorful adobe houses, savoring the tantalizing aromas wafting from local eateries serving authentic Baja cuisine. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the historic Mulege Mission, a testament to the town’s colonial past and architectural beauty.
Things to do in Mulege
Mulege is a small town that remains primarily quiet throughout the year. However, if you catch Mulege during a festival or the lighting of the Christmas Tree, you will see a louder side of town. Mulege and the surrounding area have a lot to offer regardless of when you visit. Here are a few things we think you should consider doing when you visit Mulege.
Tour the town. Walking or bicycling through town is the best way to see what a quiet, friendly place Mulege is. You’ll rarely meet an unfriendly person in passing, and there are no shortages of restaurants to pop in for a quick bite or a happy hour drink.
Our friend Juan serves our favorite tacos at Asadero Tony’s, and Manuel at El Candil dished out arguably the best margarita in town. Visit the Old Jail, which now doubles as the Mulege Museum, or spend some time strolling through the colorful town cemetery.
Unlike many towns in Baja, the Muelge Malecon is not overly scenic or active unless there is a special event taking place there. But walking along it on your way out to the lighthouse offers spectacular views of the river lined with palm trees in one direction and the lighthouse and open Sea of Cortez in the other direction.
Visit the Lighthouse. Visiting the Mulege Lighthouse offers a spectacular panoramic view of the surrounding coastline and Sea of Cortez. Perched atop a rugged cliff, it’s a perfect spot to capture breathtaking sunsets and witness the mesmerizing dance of the ocean waves below.
Unfortunately the lighthouse was closed to the public a few years back and converted to a military installation. However, you can walk around the point at low tide or take in spectacular sunrise or sunset views from both the river and seaside of the lighthouse.
Trek out to the Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulege. The second oldest mission in Baja is situated just a short distance from the town center across the Rio Mulege. Perched atop a hill, it offers breathtaking vistas of palm date oases and the rolling hillsides that surround it.
Below the mission lies a quaint small dam, a testament to the collaboration between missionaries and local Indigenous communities. The dam was designed to irrigate the nearby crops. Serving as both a historic landmark and an active Catholic church for the local community, visitors are welcome to explore its interior during designated hours—although in recent years, the mission has not been made open to the public.
Visit the old hotel Loma Linda. Built between 1958 and 1959 before Mulege was even a dot on most maps, the Hotel Loma Linda is now in ruins after entertaining a wide range of high-end guests including John Wayne, much of the rat pack, and a man named Steve, who we happened to meet during our first journey through Baja, who confirmed for us what a joyous place the hotel used to be.
With little information published about it, you can use your imagination as you stand in front of the ruins just feet from a concrete pool that is in better shape than the rest of the property. Walk into individual rooms or through the reception or kitchen area and imagine bumping shoulders with the kind of people you saw on television or heard on the radio!
Relax along the Bay of Concepcion. Exploring the Bay of Concepcion in Baja California Sur, Mexico promises a serene retreat amidst pristine turquoise waters and secluded beaches fringed by towering cacti. Whether kayaking or paddleboarding along its tranquil shores or simply basking in the sun’s warmth, any of the ten beaches along the Bay of Concepcion offer an idyllic escape for nature lovers and adventurers alike.
Volunteer in Mulege
Casa Hogar
Casa Hogar is an orphanage in Mulege that works with children in the town and surrounding areas. Although not all of the children are orphans, the organization caters to assisting children of all ages and backgrounds. Although donations are typically the preferred method of assisting, if you reach out, you may be able to volunteer with specific projects, particularly if you have special skills and abilities.
- Email: sarl780424@hotmail.com
- Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/casahogarelaltisimo
PAW (Patrons of Animal Welfare)
PAW clinic, located just a few minutes south of Mulege, is a great place to volunteer if you enjoy helping out with animals. As a gringo volunteer veterinary clinic, it operates between November and April and treats hundreds of animals throughout the season.
Depending on your background, you may be able to do some hands-on helping at the clinic in addition to general administrative duties. You can also support the organization financially or by having your animals treated here at a fraction of the cost of the US or Canada but where your payment will subsidize local care.
- Email: mulegepaw@yahoo.com
- Phone: +52 615 103 4049
- Website: https://pawclinic.wordpress.com/
Campgrounds in Mulege
There is only one campground in Mulege, with several options across the river. This is because Mulege is a small town with narrow roads and sharp turns. Trying to bring anything longer than a 30’ motorhome is not going to work. We can tell you this from experience with our 31’ motorhome, which was terribly difficult to maneuver out of town after our stay.
Looking for campground contact and location information? Check out our 280-page paperback guidebook with everything you need to know to plan and enjoy your Baja camping adventure!
Huerta Don Chano RV Park
If you are under 30’ in length, Huerta Don Chano RV Park is the only option for camping in town. You’ll turn off Highway 1 and travel beneath the arch and through town as if you are headed to the lighthouse past the Malecon along the Mulege River. The drive is only a little over 1 mile. But you will quickly see why the town is not big-rig friendly when you stop frequently for traffic to pass and you notice the low-hanging wires and often decorative flags hanging over the road.
Once you get through town and onto the road that takes you toward the beach and lighthouse, you’ll see the river on the right and will follow the road for around a quarter mile before you reach the campground. You’ll see the restaurant before the campground. Pass the parking for the restaurant and turn left into a lush camping area packed full of fruit trees and grass!
We love staying at Don Chanos not only because of its location—a short walk or bike ride into town or to the beach—but also because of the family that owns and operates it. Different family members own different lots and sections of the campground, so you may be confused if you come back to stay here multiple times and camp in different sites.
As we say, the limit for driving in town is around 30 feet; this is also the limit for most back-in sites in the campground. All sites are mostly level and include 20A power, water and sewer hookups. The spaces are separated by various fruit trees and other vegetation and if you like hummingbirds, you’re in for a treat while camping here.
WiFi is throughout the campground, and there are several bathrooms with flush toilets and hot showers. If you care to be social, try to get a spot in the front of the park near or across from the office and restaurant. This is such a friendly place for all campers and those ex-pats who purchased houses in the back section of the campground. It’s hard not to make friends!
Over the years, Don Chano’s has become incredibly busy, so you need to make reservations in advance. We’ve been surprised at the number of times we were turned away, even during early or late times in the season when we expected most travelers would be gone. Views of the river from the restaurant are wonderful, and you can put your paddleboard or kayak in directly across the street or toss out a fishing line and catch all sorts of fish.
When it’s time to leave town the best way to do so is to follow the road back toward the front of town and stay to the left on the one-way that passes Asadero Dany on the left. This will lead to a dead end where you can either go right, which does take you to an exit through a very narrow road that leads to the arch, or you can turn left. Turn left and this road will lead you beneath the bridge, over the river and onto a side road that leads up to Highway 1 where the “Mulege” sign is located.
| Price Range | $25+ | Sewer Hookup | Y | Laundry | Y |
| # of Sites | 20 | WiFi | Y | Pool | N |
| Big Rig Friendly | N | Cell Service | Y | Security | Y |
| Electric Hookup | 20A | Shower | Y | Pet Friendly | Y |
| Water Hookup | Y | Toilet | Y | Tent Friendly | Y |
Villa Isabel Maria RV Park
If your rig is too large to fit in town, Villa Isabel Maria RV Park is your first option when heading south. It is located on the left side of Highway 1, approximately 1.5 miles past the Mulege arch. There is great, visible signage, so it is hard to miss.
When you turn off the highway, you’ll follow a short, wide, hard-packed dirt road to the campground. Turn left into the campground and follow it a short distance to the office, which is located toward the back of that lane.
This family-owned and managed campground is excellent for the amenities it offers rigs of all sizes. With spacious pull-thru sites for larger rigs and more unique camping options for smaller rigs, tent campers, or dry campers, there is a place for everyone. Full hookup options are available if you want, and WiFi is available throughout the park.
Villa Isabel Maria RV Park also has a lovely pool if you are interested in swimming. There is also a washing machine you can use, and, depending on the day, you may be treated to delicious, hot pizza made on site!
“Skipper,” who manages the park for his family, is a wealth of knowledge for the surrounding area. He can help you do anything and everything you want to do in the area, from arranging fishing trips to teaching you how to dig for clams. Don’t be shy if you’re looking for help arranging your time in Mulege and the nearby beaches of the Bay of Concepcion!
| Price Range | $30+ | Sewer Hookup | Y | Laundry | Y |
| # of Sites | 20+ | WiFi | Y | Pool | Y |
| Big Rig Friendly | Y | Cell Service | Y | Security | Y |
| Electric Hookup | 30A | Shower | Y | Pet Friendly | Y |
| Water Hookup | Y | Toilet | Y | Tent Friendly | Y |
Hotel Serenidad
Although Hotel Serenidad is the oldest of the camping options in Mulege, camping here is a bit of an afterthought to the hotel. Also located on the south side of the river, approximately 2 miles from the Mulege arch and a half mile past Villa Maria Isabel RV Park, the turnoff for Hotel Serenidad is large and well-marked.
You’ll turn left off the highway onto a large, straight dirt road that runs parallel to the small airstrip. This road is typically poorly maintained, so take it slow or get your speed up to hover over the washboards. The road will end at the hotel’s wide entrance to its parking lot.
Turn into the hotel and there are eight campsites immediately to your left. These sites offer full hookups, although every time we have stayed here the voltage has been at or above 130V. Spots start small near the entrance and increase in size as you follow the wall toward the permanent residences within the hotel compound. Please camp according to your size, leaving room for larger rigs if possible.
You’ll pay for your spot at the hotel reception desk, a short walk from the parking lot into a different and magnificent hotel courtyard! The first time we stayed here we were not impressed by the option until we realized why the campground takes a backseat to the hotel! You’ll have access to a beautiful pool with a swim up bar and a restaurant that offers all sorts of delicious meals.
While all sites offer a full hookup, if you need to use the restroom there are flush toilets and hot showers to the side of the hotel. If you stand at your campsite and face the hotel, you’ll see a “parking” sign to the left and a narrow alleyway that leads to casitas in the back of the property. The bathrooms are here to your left, and they are also quickly accessible if you exit from the hotel bar.
Over the years, one of our most frustrating issues with camping at Hotel Serenidad is that we have never paid the same price twice. We have yet to see a stated rate sheet for camping. But prices have always been reasonable, and with access to the hotel and being able to walk along the river, it is well worth paying to camp here.
| Price Range | $25+ | Sewer Hookup | Y | Laundry | N |
| # of Sites | 8 | WiFi | Y | Pool | Y |
| Big Rig Friendly | Y | Cell Service | Y | Security | Y |
| Electric Hookup | 20A | Shower | Y | Pet Friendly | Y |
| Water Hookup | Y | Toilet | Y | Tent Friendly | N |
Other Camping Options In Mulege
Although not within reach of Mulege, Playa Santa Ines, 8 miles (13 km) north of Mulege (26.97931, -112.01522) offers a more secluded retreat from the busy beaches of the Bay of Concepcion. This camping area was recently reopened, and there has been quite a push to help build its popularity. You’ll see signs for it along Highway 1 in both directions before you reach the turnoff between KM 150 and 151. From there it is a 4-mile drive along a dirt road that sometimes gets a bit sandy.
This is probably best for small to mid-size RVs due to the vegetation that will likely scratch larger RVs. However, the beach has the infrastructure and size to support larger rigs, and once you reach the camping area, you will be pleasantly surprised. While it does not offer what the beaches along the Bay of Concepcion do, it provides a more secluded beach with water at each site and a common area toilet and shower at the main entrance. A wonderfully kind family maintains the property and is always excited to have new guests come and visit.