The northernmost town in Baja California Sur, just a few short miles from the border with the northern state, Guerrero Negro has a very unique purpose for travelers, particularly in the winter months when gray whales migrate into the nearby Ojo de Liebre lagoon to mate, give birth and prepare for the long voyage back to the Alaskan waters.
If you haven’t put Guerrero Negro on your itinerary for the chance to interact with gray whales, now is the time to do so. But know that you must plan accordingly as the whales are not around year-round.
Named after the whaling ship “Black Warrior,” which once frequented these waters, Guerrero Negro boasts a rich history dating back centuries. Originally a remote fishing and whaling village, this coastal town has become a vibrant destination that blends history, nature, and adventure.
The climate is usually cool and wet, though locals will remind you that it hardly ever rains in Guerrero Negro. Still, if you visit the gray whales in winter, you will likely start the day bundled up in warm clothes to survive cooler temperatures and the thick fog for which the region is known. But by the time lunch rolls around and you grab fish or shrimp tacos from the world-famous Tony’s Tacos food truck, you’ll likely strip down to shorts and flip-flops!
One of the main draws of Guerrero Negro is its proximity to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, which includes the Laguna Ojo de Liebre. Spanning over 2.5 million hectares, this vast reserve is home to an incredible array of flora and fauna, including the majestic gray whales that migrate to the area’s warm waters each year to breed.
The water in Laguna Ojo de Liebre is quite salty and shallow, which makes the perfect conditions for pregnant gray whales to give birth to calves that they can then teach how to swim and to survive on their own ahead of their voyage to Alaska. The salty water also lends itself to be easily captured at the largest salt mine in the world, which you will drive through on any whale watching tour from town.
Whale watching tours are a must-do activity, allowing visitors the unique opportunity to witness these magnificent creatures up close in their natural habitat. This experience is called whale “petting” and, if you are fortunate, you will understand why. Gray whales are incredibly friendly and their personalities show when your hired boat captain motors out toward the mouth of Ojo de Liebre and sits still as gray whales will actually approach you!
Mother whales teach their newborn babies how to survive in the ocean and will lead them to the boats where they may scratch their backs or spy hop, giving you the chance to rub them and take a deep look into their eyes. Once you connect with a gray whale eye to eye your life will never be the same!
Beyond whale watching, Guerrero Negro offers a myriad of outdoor adventures for nature enthusiasts. Explore the otherworldly landscapes of the nearby salt flats, where crystalline salt formations stretch as far as the eye can see, or embark on a desert safari to discover the region’s diverse ecosystem of cacti, wildlife, and bird species. You can also hire guides to lead you to cave paintings in more remote places in the desert that very few people get to experience.
Things to do in Guerrero Negro
Most people only visit Guerrero Negro either to interact with gray whales in winter or to stop for groceries, the bank or a quick night’s sleep on their way north or south. However, there are still a few other reasons why you may want to add the historical town to your itinerary.
Whale Watching: Embark on a thrilling whale watching tour to observe the majestic gray whales as they migrate to the warm waters near Guerrero Negro to breed. Get up close and personal with these gentle giants for an unforgettable wildlife experience.
By far this is the number one reason to visit Guerrero Negro. The gray whales tend to arrive around Christmas and remain in Laguna Ojo de Liebre until mid-March. Of course, when they arrive and leave can vary depending on environmental factors. We advise that you plan to visit sometime in February to give yourself the best chance to have playful interactions.
However, the whales will be in the lagoon in January. So, if your timing does not permit a February visit, you may experience the mating rituals rather than the babies learning how to be gentle giants.
Although there are a handful of tour companies offering whale watching tours out of Guerrero Negro, these are our favorites:
- Whale Magic Tours
- Malarrimo Eco Tour
- Mario’s Tour
Visit the Salt Flats: Explore the otherworldly landscapes of the nearby salt flats, where vast expanses of crystalline salt formations create a surreal and mesmerizing backdrop. Take a guided tour to learn about the fascinating process of salt extraction and marvel at the natural beauty of this unique environment.
Most whale watching tours will lead you through the salt flats and you will have an unofficial tour with your whale tour guide. Or you can also camp at the Campground Laguna Ojo de Liebre, which requires a drive through the majestic salt flats.
El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve: Discover the diverse flora and fauna of the El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located near Guerrero Negro. Explore the pristine wilderness on hiking trails, birdwatching excursions, or guided nature walks, and immerse yourself in the beauty of this protected natural sanctuary.
Birdwatching: With its rich biodiversity and varied habitats, Guerrero Negro is a paradise for birdwatchers. Grab your binoculars and head to the town’s wetlands, lagoons, and mangrove forests to spot various bird species, including herons, egrets, ospreys, and more.
If you are like us and you appreciate the majesty of Ospreys you will not have to look very hard to find them! Camping at the Campground Laguna Ojo de Liebre is a great way to combine all the above activities into one experience.
Campgrounds in Guerrero Negro
Guerrero Negro offers just a handful of camping options. One campground is located just outside of town, while a second one is more centrally located. Both provide full hookups, have an on-site restaurant, and offer great whale tours from January to March.
Looking for campground contact and location information? Check out our 280-page paperback guidebook with everything you need to know to plan and enjoy your Baja camping adventure!
Mario’s Tours and Restaurant
Mario’s campground is located on the west side of Highway 1, just over 1 mile south of the border between Baja California and Baja California Sur and 1 mile north of the turnoff into Guerrero Negro. There’s a large sign, and the restaurant is located just off the road with a large parking lot. The spacious campground is behind the restaurant and you can either stop and pay inside the restaurant first or find a campsite and return to the restaurant to pay.
There are over 40 full hookup campsites, many of which are pull-thru and all of which are big-rig friendly, making this the best and really only choice for camping if you have an RV or trailer over 30 feet. The power voltage here is notoriously suspect, so keep that in mind as we advise you to check the voltage and use a surge protector accordingly. Otherwise, each site has water and sewer hookups at each campsite pedestal.
The sites are mostly level and built on a shell and hard sand foundation. A restroom with flush toilets and hot showers is located in a building between the campground and the restaurant. There is WiFi at the restaurant if you need it, and cell service is decent in this area.
Although Mario’s is not glamorous, it serves several strategic purposes. First, the campground is large and easy enough to maneuver larger rigs. We prefer Mario’s when we are in transit and want to park for the night without having to unhook our towed vehicle.
Second, you can also book whale-watching tours with Mario’s that leave from the restaurant in the morning. During peak season, in February in particular, it is advisable to make reservations in advance. Many caravan companies and bus tours will book spots a year in advance, and we’ve been turned down as walk-ups before.
- Address: Transpeninsular Hwy Km. 217.3 Sin Colonia, 23940 Guerrero Negro, B.C.S.
- GPS: 27.9835, -114.01361
| Price Range | $20+ | Sewer Hookup | Y | Laundry | N |
| # of Sites | 40+ | WiFi | Restaurant | Pool | N |
| Big Rig Friendly | Y | Cell Service | Y | Security | N |
| Electric Hookup | 20A | Shower | Y | Pet Friendly | Y |
| Water Hookup | Y | Toilet | Y | Tent Friendly | Y |
Malarrimo Hotel and Restaurante Bar
Malarrimo’s campground is located in a small strip behind the hotel and restaurant, which is located exactly 1 mile from the turnoff of Highway 1 into town. As you approach the town of Guerrero Negro along the main road leading from the highway, the hotel, restaurant and campground will be on the right side just after the street splits into a divided road. A sign on the corner advertising everything Malarrimo’s and the turn into the lot is large enough to make even with larger rigs.
If you don’t have prior reservations, park out front and check in at the front of the hotel and restaurant. Rates vary by the size of your rig but all include full hookups, access to flush toilets and hot water, WiFi throughout the campground and the restaurant and bar.
Before committing to camping here, we advise that you walk around the back of the hotel to see whether it can accommodate your rig. If you have anything over 30 feet, trailer or motorhome, you’re not going to fit unless you dry camp in the front of the hotel. Your best bet is to turn around and head to Mario’s.
There are two stretches of campsites that are at 90 degrees to each other where you can set up your rig. Bigger rigs are best in the direct back where you will back into your spot, while smaller rigs are best on the side alley where sites are at an angle. There’s a bathroom and shower in the back corner.
The campsites are on mostly level concrete pads, most with sewer hookups conveniently located where they should be. However, the 20A power and water hookups are on the back wall, potentially requiring you to use extensions to plug in. The electrical outlets do not look spectacular, but we have never had any issues with the voltage.
On the other hand, water is known to shut off in town for hours or sometimes days! Because the water system in town is not spectacular, Malarrimo’s asks that you not fill your water tank and only use city water as needed. This should be understood, appreciated and honored because Baja is almost entirely a desert! And not all spaces have sewer drains, so check that out before setting up camp too.
We always enjoy happy hour at the restaurant and bar, which has a nice patio on the back of the restaurant where you can sit outside and enjoy the afternoon and evening. All food is fresh and delicious! And don’t forget to book your gray whale watching tour if you have not reserved it in advance!
- GPS: 27.96793, -114.03007
| Price Range | $20+ | Sewer Hookup | Most | Laundry | N |
| # of Sites | 20+ | WiFi | Y | Pool | N |
| Big Rig Friendly | Y | Cell Service | Y | Security | N |
| Electric Hookup | Y | Shower | Y | Pet Friendly | Y |
| Water Hookup | Y | Toilet | Y | Tent Friendly | Y |
Other Camping Options in Guerrero Negro
There are two other options for camping around Guerrero Negro, with each serving different purposes. We’ve stayed at both for the convenience each offers and think they are worth knowing about.
The Halfway Inn
It is unlikely that both Mario’s and Malarrimo’s will be full, except hit or miss during the peak of whale-watching season (February). However, if you are looking for a quick dry camping stop as you head north or south and want to save a few pesos, The Halfway Inn (28.00481, -114.01352) on the southbound split Highway 1 at the border of where the two states in Baja meet offers just that. No need to check-in. Simply pull into the parking lot out of the way of business and hunker down for a mostly quiet night of rest before carrying on with your travels.
Ojo de Liebre Campground
For a DIY whale watching tour with a more rustic dry camping option conveniently located at along Ojo de Liebre, check out the Leguna Ojo de Liebre Campground (Ph. +52-615-155-4114, 27.74977, -114.01184). Take Highway 1 south from Guerrero Negro approximately 5 miles (8 km) until you see signs for whale watching and “Laguna Ojo de Liebre” and the turnoff on the west side of the highway.
Taking this dirt road will lead you several miles through otherworldly views of the salt flats and dead end you at a restaurant and whale tour office. Here, you can check in to camp at one of the palapas across from the restaurant. Follow the dirt road as far as you want to claim your palapa. There is nothing but dry camping here, and every time we have visited, there has been an abundance of brave coyotes. So be mindful of letting or leaving your dogs outside. You can arrange to take a whale tour that leaves from a dock right in front of the restaurant.